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Non-Veneer Jewellery Boxes

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There are jewellery boxes and there are jewellery boxes. Who would choose a veneered jewellery box when exotic hardwood, heavy, durable ones are available. The Fine Jewellery Box Company have this amazing range of hand crafted jewellery cases that just look the beez neez, and would be the pride of any household. Ya gotta look at the hinges on these things. Rather than functional, they’ve made these hinges look superb – they really stand out as a main part of the product. The other outstanding thing is the quality of the wood. Whoah! These babies really look superb. One can see immediately that they are not the veneered, made in China things that most department stores do. These are made by craftsmen, and every inch shows it. Bravo.

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Pros and Cons of Underfloor Heating

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Sub-floor heating systems are not a recent innovation, but modern electric underfloor heating incorporates new technology that is causing a rise in popularity. This method of using all three means of heat transfer — conduction, radiation, and convection — is no longer thought of as a luxury, but can instead be quite affordable. Here is a quick look at the positives and negatives regarding an electric underfloor heat source.

Heating units manufactured for use beneath floors use cable mats that are next to a bronze or other mesh pad. In new construction, they are installed as part of the flooring unit, often directly below the cement layer. When in use, the floor gradually warms through simple conduction, and the resulting heat is convected upwards through the atmosphere of the room.

Voltage is not the issue, but rather the total wattage used to employ this technology. The result can be far more cost efficient than equivalent energy being transferred to a ceiling type radiant heat system. Warm air generated near the top of a room will stay there, while the lower levels remain chilled. In an electric underfloor heating system, the air near the floor warms first and slowly rises. Underfloor heat also saves space, as there are no radiators or baseboard units in the home itself.

On the other hand, this type of heating is slow even though the mesh transfers heat to the floor through conduction. It takes time for the results to be appreciable, and cooling off of the floor itself is also gradual. Initial cost may be high, especially if the system is installed in a pre-existing home. And not all types of flooring can handle the heat transfer without being compromised over time.

It is best to consult with a professional contractor that installs this type of heating system. Sub-floor heat is a growing industry, with more and more companies now training their installers for this specialized service.

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How to replace a broken tile

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Replacing a broken tile seems like it may be difficult to do but with a few common tools and a little patience it can be done. Here is a step by step guide for replacing a tile: 

 

Materials Needed:

Safety glasses, scoring tool, painters tape, drill and 1/4” bit, narrow chisel, or flat blade screwdriver, ¼” notched trowel, rubber grout float, gloves, knee pads, mortar and grout, plastic container and mixing tools.

Step 1 – remove the grout from around the broken tile with a scoring tool

Step 2 – Loosen the tile and place the painters tape around the edges of the adjacent tiles

Step 3 – Drill holes in the tiles evenly spaced

Step 4 – From the center out chisel out the pieces, starting at a 90 degree angle and slowly lowering to a 45 degree angle, until the tile pieces are removed

Step 5 – Once the tile is removed take a wider chisel and clean up the remaining residue

Step 6 – Apply a thin layer of mortar to the empty tile space and place a thin layer of mortar on the underside of the new tile, with the trowel

Step 7 – Place the new tile in the empty slot and let it sit for about 2 hours

Step 8 – Mix a batch of grout and place the grout into the joints with a grout float at a 45 degree angle

Step 9 – Let the grout set for about 15-30 minutes, once it is dry and hardens use a damp sponge to clean off the excess grout, now let the tile dry for at least 24 hours undisturbed.

Tips

Make sure you have all of your materials and tools in place before starting this project. Do not rush through the removal, take your time and do it right the first time. Also if you do not have a chisel flat screwdrivers work just as well, and don’t forget to remove the tape once everything has dried. This procedure can be done by anyone with a little patience. Every homeowner can learn to fix things in their home and save an enormous amount of money. A piece of flat wood is excellent to place between the hammer and the tile to avoid breakage of the new tile.

Also tile glue can be used instead of mortar, make sure you read the instructions because drying time may be slightly different than with mortar. Plastic spacers can be used if you are uncomfortable with placing the tile in the right place. Lastly tap the tile with the hammer or mallet, never whack it, you can easily destroy the tile. Read the instructions on all grout, mortar and adhesives to ensure proper drying time and placement.

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How to replace a bathroom toilet

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No one really likes replacing their porcelain throne, but every so often, it is necessary. Maybe your toilet isn’t broken, but you’re just tired of looking at that ugly green! Or maybe you’re remodeling your entire bathroom and everything must change. Here is a step by step guide for fitting your new toilet.

1. Remove the old toilet.

The first part of this is important. Make sure you turn off the main water supply. If you don’t, you may have yourself a wet experience. While you are removing every part of the old toilet, pay attention to what goes where. This can greatly help you when you start to put the new toilet in. This is a good time to clean up any part of the drain that is blocked.

2. If your toilet flange isn’t already installed, do it now. It is fairly easy to do, and most flanges come with step by step guides. Just remember to keep the bolts for the toilet facing up.

3. Position the wax ring where it needs to be.

This is to ensure that no water will seep out from the bottom of the toilet. If you have ever noticed water coming out from underneath the toilet, chances are it needs a new wax ring.

4. If you’re toilet uses an outlet connector, connect it.

Most modern toilets don’t have a connecter, and instead, fits right over the wax ring seal.

5. Position the main body of the toilet over the connecter.

This is fairly easy to do. Just take the main bottom part of your new toilet and place it over the connector. Tighten the bolts down, but be careful not to over tighten them. This can cause your new toilet to crack.

6. Install the toilet’s parts.

This includes the toilet seats, and maybe even handle (most toilets already have the handle attached). Installing the toilet seat should be fairly easy, but if you need help, refer to the guide that the toilet and/or seat came with.

7. Connect water supply.

This is the last part to your new toilet. You have to take the threaded connecting parts, wrap them with some standard teflon tape, and connect them with the main water supply. It should come right out from the wall where the water supply handle is.

After you connect the supply, turn the water on and let the magic happen.

So there you have it! Pretty easy huh? Fitting a new toilet may seem like a daunting task, but it’s actually pretty simple. If you have basic knowledge of how plumbing works, this will not be a hard task for you at all.

Have fun installing!

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